“This part of Glendale, once famous for the nearby West Coast headquarters of the American Nazi party, is an unlikely location for good deli,” Jonathan Gold says of classic, if inconsistent, 1947-established Billy’s, “a sandwich shop of the old school.” [L.A. Weekly]
“Too often the veteran French chef goes wildly off track with oddball flourishes and combinations of ingredients that would have been better off never meeting,” writes S. Irene Virbila on Bistro LQ’s manny, we mean many, eccentricities. [Los Angeles Times]
At Rosa Mexicano, “flavors are well balanced—maybe too much so. Even the dishes labeled ‘spicy’ were mild to our Southern California palates,” recounts Los Angeles. [LosAngeles]
“Walter Manzke is an astonishingly gifted chef, and Church and State may be the most accomplished bistro in Los Angeles at the moment,” opines Jonathan Gold on the Downtown restaurant built in an old loading dock. [L.A. Weekly]
Dipping again into O.C. as she likes to do (could she have a “friend” there, we wonder?), S. Irene Virbila finds that Marche Moderne’s chef “Marneau does the dish [Alsatian choucroute] proud,” even if she “wanted more sauerkraut.” [Los Angeles Times]
“Beirut Mix is a great place to go for big portions of incredibly good bird,” says Merrill Shindler on the upscale rebirth of a Redondo Beach Lebanese restaurant. [DailyBreeze]