The Gorbals Grabs Virbila's Heart; Gold Shoots Down Foodie "Snuff"

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The Gorbals has been a hit with critics Photo: Hadley Tomicki

S. Irene Virbila deems The Gorbals "weird and fun and a little rough around the edges, but definitely from the heart." It's the kind of grub Ilan Hall might "cook for friends in a garage band," she offers after admitting she really thought it had all been a dream the next day. There were mimes when she was there, but strangely the wine list was quite minimal. [L.A. Times]

Jonathan Gold answers some weirdo's question about the "food equivalent of a snuff film." Doing his best to be there for everybody, he reviews the city's bear paw/safari animal/fugu/dog meat/water buffalo skin scene, mostly convincing us it's a good sign to have no primates on our menus. He also alludes to his buddy "Ruth." [L.A. Weekly]

Doing more double duty at The L.A. Times, S. Irene Virbila dips her head into Bruce Marder's House Café, where the menu is initially something of a puzzle though she ultimately enjoys several dishes. Even if it is a little noisy for her, the hood seems taken by the modestly priced, flexible option. [L.A. Times]

J. Gold repeats himself a lil' bit while reviewing Lazy Ox Canteen the second time, but states anew Centeno's vigorous, imaginative and not-quite-polished cooking is the sort of thing you want to dive into. [L.A. Weekly]

Kagura is part of a growing world of edgy Japanese restaurants in Torrance, Merrill Shindler tells us, providing tempura, salads, grilled black cod, and chawan mushi for a Brave New World.
[Daily Breeze]

Mercantile is George Abou-Daouds most ambitious effort yet, writes Los Angeles magazine, who love the homemade products and Morningstar dishes, and think the ice-cream is reason enough to come. [Los Angeles]