Grub StreetLos Angeles

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Plancha, a jolly green "taco joint," is now open until midnight on 3rd at Sweetzer, serving fresh Mex from Peter White, a former Poquito Mas franchise owner with an Olvera Street obsession. A plancha is basically a flat metal griddle and White offers his short-but-wide range of dishes cooked this way, with basic "street" tacos of pastor, asada, shrimp, and pollo, alongside plates of tilapia and shrimp scampi fajitas, poblano and corn quesadillas, and mini-potato tacos. White tells Grub Street he's passed decades trolling Olvera with limited success in learning the area's recipes, though one of Plancha's signatures is a recreation of the taquitos he treasures there. Like neighboring El Carmen, this might not exactly be native-originated Mex-American food, but appears to come from the owner's need to honor the cuisine, even as we sense chain aspirations swirling about the room. Plus, this stretch of the city needs more decent South-of-the-Border eats besides Loteria. A full menu is online and a look at our slide show below shows Plancha's space, staff, and cuisine.

8250 W 3rd St. Mid-City. 323-951-9911.