the other critics

Gold's Gone Fishing at Marukai; Virbila Finds New Hatfield's Improved

Want fresh fish to prepare your pals? J. Gold suggests the killer black cod at Little Tokyo's Marukai is not-to-be-missed, though we agree with his more accessible choice of Mitsuwa for the seafood supply, though you can also fill your oxtail, pork belly, and pig's cheek needs there for prices well below McCall's. [L.A. Weekly]

A "new and improved" Hatfield's earns three-stars from S. Irene Virbila, whose oft-befuddling rating system is explained by Russ Parsons. Though the chef's cooking is "very, very good" and she lauds Quinn Hatfield for standing his fine dining ground, she also deems the approach "too polite" and thinks it "sometimes lacks excitement." [L.A. Times]

Mac & Cheeza's "infinitely customizable" signature dish "might be" the future of the cult genre, Jonathan Gold thinks, and it is definitely "superb drunk food." [L.A. Weekly]

Long Beach's Cafe Piccolo "is a classic-style Italian restaurant, of the sort they just don't make anymore," not a spaghetti and meatballs joint, promises Merrill Shindler. [Daily Breeze]

Los Angeles Magazine indulges in Lazy Ox Canteen and finds Centeneo's cooking feels "forced" when he's not marching to his own magical drum, but "he’s much more successful when he comes at the traditional repertoire obliquely, investing it with the bluntness that defines his style." [Los Angeles]

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