Former Cafe Stella barman Dustin Lancaster opened Covell Wine Bar last Friday on Hollywood Blvd. in Los Feliz. Feast tells us it's named for the central street in his native Deer Creek, Oklahoma, though "convert" might have been an equally appropriate name, given that there's no signage for the contemporary space that seems to join the Rust Belt to the Bible Belt. A manager tells Grub Street it's not needed, "cuz if you don't already know about it, you need to find out." So which beverages and bar eats will back up such hubris?
Served among the wall-mounted Indian moto, copper-top tables, and collection of vintage cameras and keys is a seasonally-adjusted selection of wines from around the world in collaboration with Silver Lake Wine's former manager Matthew Kaner, Covell's current wine director and manager. He tells Joshua Lurie, “We want people to come here and get a glass of wine for $7 that’s awesome, not just drinkable,” adding that there will be a noted lack of pretension, which is believable in a haunt made from materials once used to support a Kentucky barn.
In addition to eight changing draft beers, Covell will feature six wines by the glass each day as well as daily flights of three wines for fourteen bucks. Initial vintages include 2008 Corvidae 'Mirth' Chardonnay, a 2007 Dom. Sauveuse Cotes de Provence, and Kaner's own 2007 AM/FM Syrah. Cheese and charcuterie plates will apparently arrive soon as well, with assistance from Mozza-cheesemonger Paige Handler. Food, however, will be limited only to a few options, placing the focus primarily on grapes and suds.
Covell, now open at 4628 Hollywood Blvd. Los Feliz. 323-660-4400.