Darioush is now open on LaCienega following a ribbon-cutting last week with city mayor Jimmy Delshad, though it's still sticking to the story that April's open and immediate shutter was for "test runs for friends and family...to hone our menu and wine list." Regardless, the restaurant no longer touts the British influence of Darioush Danesh's recipes, but is now calling its menu offerings "Modern French-Persian cuisine." A full online menu reveals this to include a fifteen dollar bread basket with three toppings that include choices like watermelon and feta, mint-cucumber yogurt, Persian pickles, and a lentil dip, as well as similarly priced apps of pan-seared tiger shrimp in saffron lime butter and carmelized mango, roasted figs stuffed with goat cheese and wrapped in Parma, and ground prime Angus herb and rice meatballs with a yogurt drizzle. So, what comprises his large list of entrees?
Among the ambitious use of Middle Eastern agriculture, there's a lamb shank confit with pomegranate jus, stuffed mini-peppers with a rose water-orange dressing, a roasted chicken "supreme" with bitter orange and grape sauce, a Cornish hen brochette with sumac dressing, and a mesquite grilled Angus with jus made from cabernet provided by the non-related Darioush winery. Dessert finds Persian ice cream (a la Mashti Malone's) aside treats like pistachio baklava with saffron ice cream and a cherry brandy sauce.
Altogether, the time Dinesh took to refine this menu results in a generous list of exciting Persian fusion not commonly seen, even if similarly new Middle Eastern menus like the one at Momed might have gotten the jump with their duck schwarma and N.Y. steak tips with yogurt sauce. Still, Darioush looks enticing to palates seeking expansion, as well as repeat visits, with novel offerings to Beverly Hills and the city at large.
Darioush, open at 111 N. La Cienega Blvd. Beverly Hills. 310-289-0300
Earlier: First Look at Darioush, Now Open on LaCienega [Grub Street]