J. Gold Glows Over Gator Schnitzel and Geoduck at Son of a Gun

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Gator schnitzel at Son of a Gun Photo: Kevn Eats

"What is the seafood equivalent of pigs' ear?" Jonathan Gold asks this question today in his first look at Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo's Son of a Gun. The critic states that the dynamic momentum found in L.A.'s kitchens today can be traced back to the magic coming out of Animal, where "the chef is always right." He finds there's no room for improvement in dishes like smoked steelhead roe with maple-flavored cream on curls of toast, an "extreme deconstruction of lox and cream cheese on a pumpernickel bagel." And is there a better time to get your mouth on a simple, fresh Santa Barbara spot prawn? From the geoduck to the pho-like broth swimming with grouper, Gold declares, "Each of the plates is exquisite." So what's the aquatic version of pigs' ear? Apparently, these Floridians bust out a mean gator schnitzel. [Squid Ink]