fever for lefebvre

Ludo Gets All GQ Smooth

Ludo Gets All GQ Smooth

Photo: Ture Lillegraven/GQ

"Lefebvre is a kind of walking, talking, preening manifestation of all the blessings and damnations, transcendence and silliness, that mark this moment in American dining," writes GQ, giving L.A.'s pop-up pasha a big spread in its June Issue. Yep, Ludo is in GQ, but sadly for the LudoBitches of the world, he keeps his shirt on. So, what can you expect inside?

Hear 'Ludes compare a walk-in freezer to Baghdad! Watch Ludo contemplate suicide by Gastrovac!! Shudder when our prized French toque is called "an instructional diagram for the Metrosexual Pirate look" (ah, is that where Sydney Hunter III got it?)!!!

But our favorite line is one that quite accurately assesses the gulf between the perception of L.A. eaters and the reality: "The local eatoc­racy has an uneasy relationship with the rules of celebrity that dominate the rest of town. Woe to the big-name chef who arrives from somewhere else and is perceived to worship at the altar of Scene over that of Food." It's not long before Michael Mina and Rick Bayless take their wraps for said offenses.

The King of Pop-up [GQ]

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