the other critics

Virbila Picks Five Fried Chickens; Gold Gorges at Ink.Sack

Ludo's fried chicken, before the truck

Ludo's fried chicken, before the truckPhoto: Arnold/Inuyaki via Flickr

We're not too convinced S. Irene Virbila has been to Roscoe's recently (otherwise she'd know the chicken is just kinda "eh") or really ever waited it out at the Ludo Truck, but she includes these two buzzy fried chicken distributors in her look at L.A.'s best. Bouchon, Eva, and Cube sound much more her speed, and can surely back the claims when it comes to the clucker. In any case, all very worthy, even if we'd like to see Aunt Kizzy, Pann's, and something Korean get a little of the love here. [LAT]

"Voltaggio being Voltaggio, the sandwiches aren't quite what you'd get at the corner deli," Jonathan Gold writes of ink.sack, enjoying his "Jose Andres" and sous-vide beef tongue reuben. [LAW]

What does Mr. Gold cook at home?, Tastespotting's Sarah Gim wants to know, having missed the last issue in which he broke it all down. The scribe breaks down his preparation of a Tuesday night roast chicken, even though he made salmon from McCall's last week. Sounds like a good cook, and a confirmed "farmers market geek." [LAW]

J. Gold loved his own pancake breakfast event where he "was less a journalist than a fanboy." He goes on to give props to the participants, from Du-Par's Biff Naylor, "the Don Drysdale of the Los Angeles breakfast world," to the "sour, fragrant South Indian appam, with vegetable curry, from Mayura..." [LAW]

Patrick Kuh reviews The Royce, calling out David Feau's ability to "thrive in the middle ground" at this rare patch of haute dining in an increasingly gastropub world. [Los Angeles Magazine, September 2011]

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