the other critics

Gold Goes Gaga for Short Order, Bellies Up For Borscht

Nancy's Backyard Burger at Short Order

Nancy's Backyard Burger at Short OrderPhoto: Tatiana Arbogast

Obviously Jonathan Gold isn't going to offer anything but praise for his homie Nancy Silverton and indeed, this week he trumpets his love for her new Short Order, "the newest queen of the great Los Angeles hamburger pageant." Hope as we did, our Nancy's Backyard Burger wasn't exactly as "drippy" or as "gnarly" as we desired, but Gold says his was, as he recalls it exploding "like a meat grenade the instant it is breached by human teeth." Clearly, the kicked-back, Cox-lubricated crow's nest and Silverton's utopian grass-fed beef patty are on their way to scoring big with L.A.'s food world insiders. [LAW]

Fullerton's Kentro may not have Kelly Slater on its side, but it does have great Greek food, Miles Clement tells us, as "a stereotype-smashing example of what a Greek restaurant can and should be." Pork souvlaki? "Lamb showered with rosemary vinaigrette?" Carpo roe flatbread? By Zeus, we're all about it! Or as the folks in the old country say, "Το Χόβερκράφτ μου είναι γεμάτο χέλια!" [LAT]

While our feisty Russian-born, Ukranian-stored photographer argues that authentic borscht would never be made with white beans like the Poles and the unnamed Santa Monica restaurant we assume is Warszawa do, Jonathan Gold picks his way through a few cozy versions of the Slavic staple. Head to Barney Greengrass, he pleads, while shouting out Troyka, Traktir, and Pasadena's new Roxolana. Also, don't try to convince the Russian in your life it should be drunk from a glass. [LAW]

S. Irene Virbila takes a look at new brunch options at Playa, Eva, A.O.C., Petrossian, Tasting Kitchen, Palihouse, and Short Order, where she must have heard that brunch is coming from...somewhere! [LAT]

J. Gold corrects the city that last year was the year for L.A.'s ramen explosion, while this is the year that tsukemen launched its own offensive. The great gourmand goes to West L.A.'s Tsujita, "a noodle shop so revered that it got away with a months-long soft opening during which no noodles at all were served." If ramen isn't your thing, he argues, "You probably will not be unhappy with an evening omakase at Tsujita...although the prices of $55 and $80 may seem a bit high for a meal that seems a bit like a pop-up." But on to the dipping ramen, which Gold describes as "thicker, burlier, more slippery noodles, pure chew, with the tensile strength of hand-pulled Lanzhou mian; with syrup-dense dipping sauce porkier than pork itself." It's even good enough to tempt some Bay Area friends to consider a move. [LAW]

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