Untold scores of L.A. tacos have been hybridized and cross-pollinated with the strains of foreign cuisines over the past three years, with little hitting back from our Mexican restaurats. We've long hoped to see this trend reverse, making us fairly stoked to try Cacao Mexicatessen's uni chile guerito relleno, a yellow chile (enter the "guero") layered with uni and fried batter bits under a serrano-infused soy sauce.
The bad news finds the incredible morsel, arranged in a trio on a plate of seared albacore, served only until 3:00 P.M. tomorrow. Javier Cabral calls the dish chef Christy Luján's ode to Baja, which itself has a history of Japanese heritage and great reserves of urchin we hope Lujan won't be afraid to tap again in the near future. [SI]