Our biggest fears about Jonathan Gold's new gig were that we'd be seeing less of the critic, who has long turned in three reviews each Thursday for L.A. Weekly. Since starting the job last week, the good news so far finds Gold already offering regular posts to the L.A. Times' Daily Dish blog, raising our hopes that each and every day could bring us a fat slice of wit from the writer. Today, he lets us relax from the idea that we can no longer enjoy L.A.'s own version of Mexican food, no matter if it's slightly bastardized or seldom "pit-roasted for hours in a wrapping of maguey leaves."
He's talking about the barbacoa at Highland Park's My Taco, of course, which he calls "more of a city version" than the rural product of Hidalgo, "a delicate, spicy tangle of long-cooked meat crisped on hot metal, blackened at the edges, caramelized to a sweet, subtle gaminess." One can get love it long time in a "half pound" plate or in a simple taco. Even more promising, the column is titled "Taco Tuesday," making us beam that this could be a weekly look at our city's enduring edible symbol. [LAT]