Unlike the James Beard gang, Food & Wine has opted not to overlook Los Angeles while summing up the country's best doughnut shops (we'd love a bigger burn than that, but that's all we've got in our puddle of defeat). The magazine looks at fifteen U.S. favorites, mostly concentrating on names you likely already know, like Voodoo in Portland, Doughnut Plant in New York, and beignet-boss, Cafe du Monde, in New Orleans. To that end, the article skips the sublime Donut Man experience found in Glendora and focuses on a truly old-school bite: Primo's Westdale Donuts, established in 1956 in at National and Sawtelle in Palms.
Primo's selection defines simple much as its slim, blink-and-you-miss-it space feels like a preserved slice of vintage L.A., save any irony or sentimentality. No faux-nuts or chai-latte glaze here, just dusted twists and chocolate circles where the dough packs more flavor than the sugar.
While the sweet senior behind the counter was yet to read the story, she did confirm "that's so nice" with us upon hearing the news, then snapping to the realization the slideshow surely must be the reason they've baked three batches this morning and continue to sell out the display case.
Primo's, 2918 Sawtelle Blvd. West L.A. 310-478-6930.
America's Best Donuts [F&W]