The Other Critics

Sherry Snacks on Sandwiches; Gold Does Dim Sum for Dinner

Son of a Gun's fried chicken sandwich
Son of a Gun’s fried chicken sandwich Photo: KevinEats

S. Irene Virbila takes a stand on sandwiches, as we find the critic inspecting three of her favorites, along with honorable mentions going to Josie Next Door’s duck confit banh mi, an egg salad at Clementine, and a jambon beurre at Cookshop. Virbila picks a favorite at ink.sack, a reuben with corned-beef tongue, and cites Micah Wexler’s “moxie” for taking on thick-cut pastrami in a Langer’s town. Like many who came before her, she goes gaga for the fried chicken sandwich at Son of a Gun, a place she didn’t seem to be as keen on when it first opened. The critic promises, “if you want a lesson in the art of sandwich making, try one at any of these three places.” [LAT]

Everybody’s always bugging poor Jonathan Gold about dining on dim sum when the sun goes down and to this day, he admits he’s never “had a proper answer to this.” That won’t stop him from trying. He’d point you to DinTai Fung or 101 Noodle Express, but fears they just won’t be regionally specific enough for anyone seeking real dim sum. He has a few other options he calls “Chinese-lite,” stressing that that dim sum is for breakfast and “a Monterey Park waiter asked about har gow at dinnertime will flinch the way a waiter at Musso’s might if you asked him about pancakes.” Gold is excited to point you to San Gabriel’s Lunasia, which he thinks just might be a “top-5” dim sum spot that does it well into the late evening (until 8:30 P.M.). Sure, maybe it’s blasphemy to do dim sum all-day, but “think of it as Hong Kong’s answer to chicken ‘n’ waffles,” he encourages to clear your conscious. [LAT]

Sherry Snacks on Sandwiches; Gold Does Dim Sum for Dinner