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Jonathan Gold Is "Happy Enough" at The Parish

The Parish's Époisses burger

The Parish's Époisses burgerPhoto: KevinEats

Gingerly stepping into the "No Substitutions" policies held dear by chefs like of John "Piccaso" Shook, Sang "Ketchup Kvetcher" Yoon, and Kazunomi Naz-awa that most diners without acute chef-sympathies find pretentious or plain ire-inducing, Jonathan Gold declares Casey Lane "the dark prince of 'No Substitutions Nor Modifications.'" He proceeds to lose us on the concept album metaphor and still isn't sure what the hell he's been eating after twelve trips to Tasting Kitchen, but Lane's newbie The Parish is speaking loud and clear to the critic.

Gold compares the gastro-pub to April Bloomfield's Spotted Pig, calling it "a restaurant that seems to adopt the form only to subvert it." This means a burger emanating the strong balm of Époisses, a "crumbly rather than crisp" fried chicken with peaches "that taste meatier than the bird," and dishes made from a whole pig, including poutine with Indian paneer.

Subtle sides and veggie-bulked fare make the biggest impressions on Gold at this "meaty" affair, while noting of the chef's my-way-or-the-highway aesthetic, "you will be happy enough, because Casey Lane's rules of engagement have gradually become your own."

Thou shalt not make substitutions at the Parish: Restaurant Review: Counter Intelligence [LAT]

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