Today Russ Parsons infiltrates Chi Spacca, the newest restaurant to emerge at the Mozza complex. As expected, the meat-heavy concept stems from Chad Colbys salumi bar and whole pig dinners with the intention of highlighting his cured meats, which represent the output of L.A's first legit dry-cure program. The Times foresees a menu that starts on "whole muscles" like speck and capocollo, with space for salami, pate, terrine, and whipped lardo, and room for roasted and grilled meats in dishes like veal and bone marrow pie, a $311 80-oz. bistecca fiorentina, and Moorish lamb shoulder chops. There will also be weekly events like a Saturday nose-to-tail feast, as well as salads, fish, and veggie dishes, with desserts by Dahlia Narvaez.
Chi Spacca will hold two nightly seatings, with most main dishes priced between $25 to $30 and room for walk-ins at the bar. Beaming with pride, Colby tells the paper, The other day I was looking at the cures in the walk-in and I told [Nancy Silverton] that I honestly didnt know whether anybody was doing anything better right now and she said I remember feeling the same way with bread 25 years ago.