The kid spit into the sandy cretaceous conglomerate of Hanford loam. He shifted his hips and his threadbare mule passed over burning bedrock and crossed the eroded sloping channel and eased through a thicket of stinging chaparral. A celestial boulevard stretched and blinked before him in an eternal row of street scum and concrete and human misery. And shiny shirts. Definitely shiny shiny shirts. Today L.A.'s urban cowboys have a new outpost for grubbing down once the guardians of club life reject them at the door for their jeans and spurs. Tinhorn Flats, the 72-year-old Burbank destination for Western cowboy food, ghost town decor, and swinging saloon-style doors, is now open and serving in a new location on Highland Boulevard in Hollywood.
Under owner and Sam Kinnison-chronicler Baret Lepejian, Tinhorn is now offering its chow over breakfast, lunch, and dinner in a 190-seat space, noticeably bigger than the original, with antique cabinets, deer antler and blown-glass chandeliers, stern-faced daguerreotypes, and other hokey, honky-tonk ephemera.
The menu includes ten burger options, as well as dishes like chili, pork chops, huevos rancheros, breakfast burritos, and baby back ribs. And where there are guns and bowie knives, there should probably be booze. Tinhorn's drinks extend to beer, wine, and cocktails, with an everyday happy hour taking two dollars off the price of hooch.
Sure, it may be a stretch to suggest any vaquero worth his mettle ever gingerly stepped around a plate of panko-crusted calamari, chicken caesar wraps, or an ahi salad. But remember, this is still Hollywood, so quit your bellyachin' and such!
Tinhorn Flats, 1724 N. Highland Ave. Hollywood; 323-462-2210.